Risorse bibliografiche
Risorsa bibliografica obbligatoria
Risorsa bibliografica facoltativa
Scheda Riassuntiva
Anno Accademico 2016/2017
Scuola Scuola del Design
Insegnamento 099971 - METADESIGN STUDIO
Docente Bertola Paola , Colombi Chiara , Vacca Federica
Cfu 12.00 Tipo insegnamento Laboratorio

Corso di Studi Codice Piano di Studio preventivamente approvato Da (compreso) A (escluso) Nome Sezione Insegnamento
Des (1 liv.)(ord. 270) - BV (1089) DESIGN DELLA MODA***AZZZZA099971 - METADESIGN STUDIO

Programma dettagliato e risultati di apprendimento attesi

Metadesign is a design methodology that leads to the concept definition of a new product or service, through a research process that synthesize design goals, technological and productive constraints, market context and consumption trends for a consumers’ group of reference.

In particular, Metadesign studio aims to present the whole design process for an apparel collection, covering phases, activities, and tools. The studio offers theoretical lessons, instrumental lectures, seminars with guest speakers—all focusing on processes and tools for collection development and merchandising-- and working hours in class.

The lectures are designed to introduce and clarify the topics being covered in the course, and to relate those topics to business applications. Slides of lectures and seminars for each class and other related materials are available on Beep platform.

Metadesign studio assigns a Spring-Summer womenswear collection design project as team assignment, an individual assignment and an individual written test.



The assignment requires the development of concept and guidelines of a Spring-Summer womenswear collection for a fashion ready-to-wear brand: RED Valentino.

Students, grouped in teams, are required to develop an assigned inspirational theme --design brief-- (three iconic characters paired with a historical period) up to a collection’s architecture, following a methodological path supported by theoretical and instrumental lectures and tools.

Students are required to develop the assignment under the supervision of professors and teaching assistants. During working hours, students are required to work in class on their team assignment with their teammates. Moreover, during working hours each team will meet professors and teaching assistants on a weekly basis to present their work-in-progress. Reviews with professors and teaching assistants are addressing and sharing meetings on methods and contents. Reviews aim, on one hand, to sharing developed activities and in progress work and, on the other one, to receive comments and suggestions to improve and continue the project. Weekly reviews are mandatory.

The assignment includes three phases/parts as follows:



This phase requires the development of an assigned inspirational theme for a collection, organized in three subthemes, as three different perspectives or interpretations on the main assigned theme. Scenario development includes:

1.1. Case Study Analysis: the analysis of RED Valentino brand, as brand case study, requires the identification of brand values, target (customer’s profile), competitors (brands targeting the same kind of customers), brand’s permanent stylistic codes (product’s characteristics that define the identity of RED Valentino’s product, such as fabrics, colors, embellishments, shapes and volumes), iconic products, retail store identity (typology of retailing formats, geographical markets and locations, retail design characteristics), and communication elements.

Output: RED Valentino case study (3 boards)

1.2. Iconographic Research (Trend Research): the understanding of the inspirational theme requires a preliminary analysis to acquire the information on the history and personalities of the iconic characters of reference and on the cultural elements describing the assigned historical period (especially focusing on cultural and material production such as socio-cultural values; products and trends in architecture, design, fashion, art, literature, music, publishing, movie industry, etc.). After a preliminary desk research, the main elements of the inspirational theme are expressed as visual inputs. In fact, main ideas are visually explored through an iconographic research, which is delivered as a group of images that explore and deepen symbolical meanings and aesthetic references. Through a progressive selection of images, the iconographic research aims to frame three scenarios, as sub-thematic areas of the main inspirational theme, or, better, as three different points of view on the inspirational theme. The three scenarios express the so-called “soft qualities” such as colors, textures, shapes, finishing, which will inspire three different parts of an apparel collection (three lines of one collection). Each scenario is properly entitled, according to its main ideas.

Output: 3 Moodboards with 3 colors palettes.

1.3. Consumer Profiling: referring to the three scenarios/moodboards, it is important to identify the ideal consumer’s profile, which can value and embrace the values and styles evocated in the moodboards. In particular, each moodboard is associated to an ideal woman, portraying her most representative “occasion of use”. Indeed, the three selected profiles refer to three different occasions of use for garments that compose a complete apparel collection.

Output: 3 Lifestyle boards.


RED Valentino case study (3 boards) + 3 Moodboards with 3 colors palettes + 3 Lifestyle boards




This phase requires the definition of the collection stylistic codes, according to the brand identity and the three scenarios/lines proposed, and the design of the main key items and outfits for each scenario/line.

Product design includes:

2.1. Merchandise Research: Merchandise Research (Ricerca merceologica) focuses on the understanding of categories and typologies of womenswear and on the technical analysis of garments construction. Referring to each of the three lines, Merchandise Research aims to collect and select references of items, which can represent a coherent stylistic inspiration and tangible expression of the looks and styles evoked by moodboards for the portrayed ideal consumers. Merchandise Research produces a knowledge repository, which will be used to develop original items and outfits. The research is developed referring to historical collection, collection from the historical period assigned as inspirational theme, and contemporary collections but also fabrics’ structures, trims, construction details, embroidery techniques, etc. The research is organized in three groups, each related to the three lines proposed.

Output: Merchandise Research Dossier.

2.2. Stylistic Codes Definition (Concept): according to brand identity, to the three lines proposed, and to the merchandise research, a collection is first of all identified by its main stylistic codes, which are distinctive and will be used to develop all garments. Stylistic codes include brand’s permanent codes (such as permanent colors, fabrics, trims, iconic products, graphics) and seasonal codes which represents the original element of a collection for a specific season. In particular, seasonal codes allow interpreting the brand identity according to seasonal trends and inspirations defined through moodboards and offering to consumer an up-to-date look. Stylistic codes are distinctive for each line.

Output: 3 Stylistic Codes Boards (Concept boards).

2.3. Fabrication: starting from the fabrics kit delivered by faculty as part of the design brief, teams are be required to select appropriate fabrics and combine them into three distinctive fabrics palettes to materialize the ideas suggested by each moodboard, considering their physical and technical characteristics and their potential application for garment construction. Fabric palettes are completed with appropriate trims and original textile print designs. Textile print designs require specific technical boards. According to fabric palettes, a fine-tuning of color palettes introduced in the first step is required.

Output: 3 Fabrics/trims/textile prints palettes and x boards for textile print designs.

2.4. Key items/outfits design: starting from Merchandise Research and Stylistic Codes, each line is developed by designing the most representative items combined in full outfits, which embody the lines’ main ideas and express the lines’ identities at their best. The design of key items/outfits requires the use of colors, fabrics, and trims according to the palettes of reference. Moreover, key items/outfits need to be coherent with brand identity, moodboards and consumers’ profile. Key items/outfits are delivered through technical boards, which include:

- A complete look on full human figure, colored and with realistic proportions;

- The selection of used fabrics and trims;

- Flats of each item with construction details and specifications.

Ideally, for each line, key items/outfits should include RED Valentino iconic items.

Output: 3-5 Key Outfits boards per each line (9-15 boards) and related merchandise boards

2.5.Fine tuning of Moodboard and Lifestyle boards: moodboards and lifestyle boards presented in the first delivery need to be revised according to fabric palettes and stylistic codes.

Output: 3 revised Moodboards with 3 colors palettes - 3 revised Lifestyle boards.


3 revised Moodboards with 3 colors palette + 3 revised Lifestyle boards + 3 Stylistic Codes Boards + 3 Fabrics/Trims/Textile Prints palettes and x boards for textile print designs +3-5 Key Outfits boards per each line (9-15 boards) and related merchandise research boards




This step requires the planning of the collection’s architecture (merchandise plan), managing the variety of apparel categories and the assortment of typology of items within a category, according to occasions of use.

Merchandise planning includes:

3.0. Key Items/Outfits Design Fine Tuning: in order to move on with the collection development, key items/outfits need to be fully defined and approved as they represent the core ideas of the collection.

Output: 3-5 revised Key Outfits per each line (9-15 boards) and related merchandise boards.

3.1. Occasions of Use Definition: referring to an ideal collection’s structure organized in three main occasions of use (work, leisure, special occasion), it is necessary to define the style of each occasion, their relative percent weight within the collection, according to the general image of the collection, and the most representative typologies of items of each occasion of use. This structure represents a guideline for the further activities.

Output: Occasions of Use Scheme (1 board)

3.2. Collection Development: referring to the main ideas embedded in the key items/outfits, the dimensions of the collection (variety and assortment) are developed according to the following possibilities:

- Development of new typologies of items for existing stylistic ideas and construction (level 1)

- Development of new constructions for existing typologies and stylistic ideas (level 2)

- Development of new stylistic ideas and construction for existing typology of item (level 3)

- Development of new stylistic ideas and construction for new typology of item (level 4)

Output: 1 board for each group of flats referring to the same stylistic idea (x ideas = x boards) - Minimum 3 additional new creative ideas/solutions required per each line

3.3. Merchandise Grid Development: a further development of the collection requires the management of colors-fabrics options for each item. Each item (both key items and additional new garments) is presented in different colors-fabrics options. In this way, collection’s variety increases; fabrics are used more extensively, mixing the fabric palettes of the three lines; and more options are available to the final consumer. This development requires in any case an accurate evaluation of the relative weight of occasions of use in order to confirm the identity of the collection and the brand’s stylistic codes, offering a balanced mix of basic items, fashionable items, and carryover items. Moreover, specifications on wholesale price are needed.

Output: Merchandising Grid with wholesale prices (Printed boards from Excel file)

3.4. Collection’s Fabrication and Color Variations: considering Key items fine tuning, collection development, and merchandise grid. the three color palettes and fabrications are now combined and revised to create a unite color palette and fabrication, including color variations for each fabric, coherently with inspirations and functional to seasonal needs and deliveries.

Output: Collection’s fabrication and color variations (x boards)

3.5. Delivery Packages Development: according to a suggested calendar of deliveries to retail stores, four packages of garments are organized in consideration of identity of the collection’s lines, production issues, seasonal and consumers’ needs, and visual merchandising requirements (i.e. color stories to be displayed in store).

Output: 4 delivery packages (x boards)

3.6. Sales Lookbook: Choosing from all available items, mixing and matching the three lines, 21 looks are created and collected a lookbook to offer a whole view of the collection’s main ideas. Looks are presented as outfits on a full human figure, not colored and with realistic proportions, and specifications of items’ codes.

Output: 21 looks (x boards)

3.7. Retail Price Tiers Definition: Considering wholesale prices and brand positioning, retail prices tiers (entry, core, top) per each category of item are defined.

Output: Retail Price Tiers Board

3.8. Press release: the collection is introduced through a ‘press release’, a written technical text (500 words) that explains the inspirational themes and the collection’s main ideas (colors, volumes, fabrics, trims, iconic and key items, etc.).

Output: Press release (free format and layout)


Revised DELIVERY 1 + Revised DELIVERY 2 + Occasions of Use boards + boards with new products + Merchandising Grid + x boards for Collection’s fabrication and color variations + x boards for Delivery Packages + Sales Lookbook + Retail Price Tiers Board + Press Release




Each student is required to collect and keep track of his/her individual research, individually contributing with his/her “pins” to each of the three boards assigned to his/her team within Metadesign Lab Pinterest account. Pinterest boards are meant to be an archive and an easy and quick tool to share research contents with teammates. Pinterest boards collect pins to show the individual contribution to team’s merchandise research and project.

Launched together with step 2, this individual assignment will be autonomously developed by each student and not be reviewed by professors during the weekly reviews. It will be evaluated at the end of the course, concurring to students’ final personal evaluation and grade. In fact, students will be individually evaluated for his/her activity on Metadesign Lab Pinterest account. Evaluation will consider assiduity, quality of contents, depth and pertinence of research, and quality of resources.



Written test on lectures and textbook. It consists in a closed book/closed notes multiple-choice test held in class. The duration of the test is 60 minutes.

Note Sulla Modalità di valutazione

The evaluation of each assignment will cover the following aspects:

- Methodological coherence: Understanding and application of the metadesign process and phases;

- Research skills and critical thinking: Understanding of the Brief; quality, level of definition and consistency of the research; quality of sources;

- Creativity and design attitude: Capability to give a critical and original design solution;

- Representation skills and graphic project: quality and accuracy of freehand and computer assisted drawing skills, quality of graphic elements to support the visual presentation of the project (graphic layout, color fidelity, image quality and definition, accuracy in the application of material samples, etc.);

- Communication skills: Quality of the oral presentation, structure of the oral presentation, use of professional language, and mannerisms;

- Team collaboration: Equal share of workload among team members, cohesiveness, and fairness.

- Motivation and participation: Timeliness, accountability, active and critical participation during lectures and reviews. Motivation and active participation will be measure also using a peer-to-peer evaluation system, consisting in a team self-evaluation by each team members for each of the three required delivery.


The final evaluation will not be based on the arithmetic mean of all grades but will be based on the assessment of the progressive qualitative advancement, in relation to the above mentioned aspects, demonstrated by each team and each team member through the sequence of assignments and activities planned. In fact, the three deliveries planned for team assignments will show the team’s and team members’ growth and maturity in term of understanding and application of design methodology, quality and depth of research, creativity and design attitude. Individual assessment will be then supported by peer-to-peer evaluation, individual assignment evaluation and individual written test.

Risorsa bibliografica obbligatoriaBertola, P.; Colombi, C. (a cura di), Metamoda. Percorsi di Ricerca per il Design della Moda, Editore: Maggioli, Anno edizione: 2010, ISBN: 9788838744440

Italian edition only

Risorsa bibliografica obbligatoriaBertola P., Colombi C. (Guest Editors), Fashion Practice. Fashion Made in Italy Special Issue, Editore: Taylor & Francis, Anno edizione: 2014, ISSN: 1756-9389, Fascicolo: 6:2 http://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rffp20/6/2

Journal available at POLIMI Library and accessible through Polimi Proxy

Risorsa bibliografica obbligatoriaSlides of lectures and seminars https://beep.metid.polimi.it

Availabale upon request of subscription to [2016-17] - M3 LABORATORIO DI METAPROGETTO [DESIGN DELLA MODA] - beep.metid.polimi.it

Risorsa bibliografica facoltativaBertola P., Linfante V. (a cura di), Il nuovo vocabolario della moda italiana, Editore: MAndragora, Anno edizione: 2016, ISBN: 9788874612857 http://www.mandragora.it/it/detail/572/il-nuovo-vocabolario-della-moda-italiana/

Italian edition only

Risorsa bibliografica facoltativaVacca, F., Design sul filo della tradizione, Editore: Pitagora, Anno edizione: 2013, ISBN: 8837118791 http://www.pitagoragroup.it/pited/Vacca1879.html

Italian edition only

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